Passage of Time

While in Campbell River we took care of some housekeeping, did laundry, filled the water tank, and purchased groceries.  We even had time left to visit the “Museum at Campbell River” which we found quite by accident while bicycling past the facility on our way to the local Curling Club. 

The Museum is just south of town on a hill overlooking Discovery Passage and houses an excellent collection of First Nations masks and headdresses. 

One display cited Native stories of creation, revealing each sculpted piece throughout the spoken storyline with special lighting effects in a darkened room. 

Some of the pieces, including a large sculpted fish, opened their mouths to reveal yet another creature inside.  The Museum also has an excellent display of the early logging industry in the area and fascinating stories about early settlers of Campbell River. 

The Museum does an excellent job of portraying the passage of time and the changes that were quickly taking place.  A nice Maritime Museum can also be found in Campbell River which we have visited in previous years as well as the Cape Mudge Village Potlatch Treasures on nearby Quadra Island.

Early in the Season



Looking West towards Vancouver Island

We have been very fortunate thus far with beautiful weather so early in the boating season.  We had great visibility for the three-hour cruise from Lund to Campbell River on Vancouver Island.  We could see across the Strait of Georgia and clearly identify the snow covered mountains to the west and the impressive snow covered peaks we left behind in the east on mainland British Columbia.  

Looking East towards Mainland B.C.

The seas were calm and we could see spray from a couple of whales in the area.  About this time we decided to stop and recalibrate the boat’s electronic compass.  We had noticed that there was a discrepancy between the “projected course over ground” and the heading shown on the Raymarine.  We made two slow turns with the boat so the electronic compass inside the Raymarine can view all the headings and determine the degree of error.  This seems to help calibrate or correct the discrepancy.  After a few minutes time, we were on our way again and I started making calls for reservations in Campbell River which proved to be a bit bizzare.  

Approaching Campbell River

I called the Discovery Harbour Marina operated by the Tribes and received a recorded Christmas greeting, stating they would open again in January 2015.  The recording said to press 2 for moorage; after doing so the response said the number is not valid.  I then called the Coast Marina and received no answer; “perhaps everyone is at lunch” we thought.  We decided to head into Discovery Marina and tie-up, hoping to find someone who could check us in.  I found a lady at one of the shops located on the dock and she told me the marina was not yet open for the season but kindly gave me the code to the gate, laundry room, and showers.  

Approaching Campbell River

We settled in and I headed up to the showers with towel and supplies in-hand only to discover that the coin box for all the showers had been removed for the off season, exposing the wires and leaving the showers unusable.  Additionally, I found that the water to the docks had been turned off as well.  We called the Coast Marina again, this time using a cell phone number we had been given last season for Dave, the Harbormaster; yippee, they had space and he took our reservation over the phone with a credit card and gave us all the necessary access codes.  We headed next door to this smaller marina, tied-up, and settled in once again.  Oh joy, I can finally get my shower and no coins necessary.  

Refurbished Classic Yacht

The best thing about Campbell River is all the interesting people you meet and the intriguing boats and activity at the docks.  At Discovery Marina we were next to a beautifully restored classic yacht used for tours and special events; at Coast Marina we saw several tug boats loading supplies, getting ready to head out.  

Tugs Getting Ready to Leave 

Near our assigned slip was a special pen holding alevins (baby salmon) operated as part of the Ocean Transition & Release Project funded by Fisheries & Oceans Canada.  Wow, we didn’t know our moorage came with dinner!  It would certainly take a lot of these little buggers to make a meal. 

As it turned out these little guys were receiving their dinner, a hand full of food pellets scattered over their pen by a volunteer.  We’ll save these fry’s for later and go to the ever popular Dick’s Fish n’ Chips instead, located in a houseboat dockside.

Weather Tracks and Boat Tracks



Departing Pender Harbour

After checking the weather for our departure from Pender Harbour, we decided to leave early the following morning.  The forecast predicted a “strong wind warning” of 5-15 knots in the morning, increasing to 20-25 knots in the afternoon coming from the northwest.  We departed Garden Bay at 7:30am, anticipating a 12:30pm arrival at Lund, B.C in order to avoid the worst of the afternoon winds.  As we exited Pender Harbour into Malaspina Strait, we were surprised to find the sea smooth as glass.  

Relatively Calm Seas, Malaspina Strait

A few hours later the winds picked up but nothing much above 10 knots; waves were never more than 2-3 feet.  The Front that was predicted to move down from Port Hardy never seemed to materialize but we didn’t complain.  Perhaps the Front weakened as it moved further south.  After arriving in Lund, we checked the winds later that afternoon for the sake of curiosity, winds were up to 16 knots with occasional 20 knot gusts, nothing really significant for Got d’ Fever.  Not only is it interesting to track weather, it can also be interesting to track a boat’s cruising route.  We purchased a relatively new device called a Delorme which creates a bread crumb trail of our boat’s route and current location.  We have programmed the Delorme to drop a bread crumb once every hour until we reach our destination for each day of cruising.  Family and friends can view our route on the web at any time.  We hope you will ride along with us by going to:  http://share.delorme.com/mvGotDfever.  

Arriving at Lund, Historic Hotel on left

We spent the afternoon at Lund visiting Nancy’s Bakery, a must for the attractive shop and nice assortment of goodies, and also spent time at the excellent Art Gallery & Studio housing beautiful sculptures, jewelry, and paintings for sale.  These two businesses are the main draw in Lund along with the Historic Lund Hotel and the small but well-stocked General Store. 

Nancy's Bakery, Lund

For eats and drinks, guests can visit the Pub in the Hotel or have dinner at the charming Boardwalk Restaurant where we enjoyed fresh caught fish brought in from the local fishing fleet.  Yes you can see all of Lund in an hour or two; nevertheless, Lund serves as a convenient stopover and a jumping-off point for Desolation Sound.  In the late 1800’s, Lund was both a logging and a fishing settlement begun by Swedish settlers Charlie and Frederick Thulin. The settlement received supplies by steamboat every 3-4 weeks.  

Boardwalk Restaurant

The Thulin brothers operated a store, a post office and built two hotels.  The first hotel built in 1895 was destroyed by a forest fire in 1918; the second hotel which opened in 1905 still survives and has subsequently been refurbished.

Delightful Pender Harbour

Watch Out, No Brakes on these Barges!

 

We left Howe Sound on an overcast day and rounded Merry Island Lighthouse with calm seas (1ft or less) traveling up the Strait of Georgia along the B.C. Coast.  The sun tried its best to peak through the cloud layer and hopeful Sea Lions hauled themselves out on “White Islet” in a huddled mass.  We entered Welcome Passage, formed by North & South Thormanby Islands going against a 1-2 knot current. 

Tug towing barges through Welcome Passage

As we approached the north end of this narrow passage, we were faced with a Tug pulling three barges heading toward us moving quickly with the current.  We hailed the Tug on the radio regarding his intentions, hearing no response we quickly moved off to the side so as not to interfere with his path; no explanation necessary, the unspoken rule is to make room for the big boys! 

Entering Pender Harbour

The rest of the journey was uneventful; we arrived in Garden Bay in Pender Harbour at 4:30pm and set the anchor.  Pender Harbour is a complex of several inlets and coves, a pretty area that has built up over the years with lovely new homes surrounding the Harbour; older, original homesteads still remain and can be seen along the shoreline. 

Numerous Homes in Pender Harbour

Inside the Harbour are sheltered anchorages and several marinas and resorts, both rustic and upscale.  Public docks provide easy access to pubs, cafes, shops, and a well-stocked IGA Market.  The following day was warm and sunny so we headed out with the dinghy to pick up some groceries and partake in the legendary selection of ice cream at LaVerne’s diner, mainly popular because hard ice cream is not always easy to find in more isolated areas. 

Gunnera Manicata Plant

Behind one of the pubs we discovered Gunnera Manicata growing along the pathway near a creek. 

Prickly Stocks on the Gunnera Manicata

This unusual big-leaved perennial forms giant clumps of prickly stalks with bottle-brush like flowering spikes.  The leaves can grow up to 6 feet across and the stalks up to 10 feet tall.  These Gunnera Manicata plants were quite a surprise as the plant is native to South America. 

Java enjoying her Dinghy Ride

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the nooks and crannies of Pender Harbour by dinghy, Java rode along enjoying the warmth of the afternoon sun.

Bowen Island

Got d' Fever at the Union Steamship Co. Marina

We headed out on April 13^th from Vancouver on a cold wet day, dressed in full raingear so as not to get completely soaked while handling lines and fenders.  After topping off with fuel, we made the short two-hour voyage into Howe Sound, arriving at Snug Cove on Bowen Island around 3pm. 

Snow Capped Mountains seen from Bowen Island

Similar to our Bainbridge and Whidbey Islands, Bowen Island is within easy reach for Vancouverites by Ferry from Horseshoe Bay, just northwest of Vancouver.  We were glad that the following day was warm and sunny because the scenery from Snug Cove is magical. 

Shops at Snug Cove, Bowen Island

We also like the adorable village here, consisting of boardwalks with boutiques, cafes, pubs, a bakery, and a grocery store all within easy walking distance from the Union Steamship Marina. 

Attractive Boardwalks and Shops at Snug Cove

It was Captain Jack Cates who first started a resort here in 1902 and created the Terminal Steamship Company.  In 1920, Jack’s steamship and resort business was sold to the Union Steamship Company who built a bigger store and expanded the hotel.  The Company owned and operated 180 cottages, six picnic grounds, an outdoor concert stage, and a dance pavilion for 800.  Steamships carried visitors to the island for picnics or cottage holidays. 

Got d' Fever at Snug Cove Village, Bowen Island

Even today Snug Cove offers resort-style accommodations and retains its magic island appeal.  Surrounding the village and marina is the Crippen Regional Park with numerous hiking trails. We spent part of an afternoon hiking one of the loop trails past a small waterfall. 

Resident Swan

When we returned to the boat, the resident Swan was waiting for us, apparently anticipating a handout of breadcrumbs.

Resident Swan visits Got d' Fever

Landon Tour Bus

Saturday was spent touring Vancouver proper with Duane and family, the Landon tour bus pulled up in front of our marina and we hopped in for a drive around beautiful Stanley Park named after Lord Stanley, a British politician and governor general in the late 1800’s.  The Park is surrounded by Vancouver Harbour and English Bay, offering bicycle paths, play areas, beaches, a teahouse, and an outdoor swimming pool.  Circling back into town, we drove past the impressive cauldron at the Jack Poole Plaza which was lit for the 2010 Olympic Winter Games. 

Gastown District, Vancouver B.C.

Next stop was Gastown, which is similar to our Pioneer Square with pretty tree-lined streets, historic buildings, and lovely ornate lamps.  Gastown was Vancouver’s first downtown core and is named after “Gassy” Jack Deighton, a steamboat captain who arrived in 1867 and opened the area’s first saloon.  We stopped for some souvenir shopping and to have lunch at the Steam Works Brewery, we had such a nice time bonding with family and helping Porter celebrate his upcoming 12^th birthday. 

The Steam Clock in Gastown, Vancouver

While in Gastown we visited the steam-powered clock, a must see.  Although not built until 1977, the Steam Clock is styled to appear as a 19^th century antique.  The clock is powered by a small one-inch piston engine supplied with low pressure steam from the centralized steam heating system that serves a portion of downtown Vancouver.  The engine drives a gear train, which drives an ascending chain lift to lift ball weights.  The ball weights travel to a top track and load onto a drive chain providing the driving force to the clock while the ball weights descend.  Five steam whistles are mounted on top the clock case, the large central whistle counts off the full hours and the four auxiliary whistles produce the Westminster “chime” every 15 minutes. 

The Police Museum

Soon it was time to plug the parking meter with additional coins and hike a few blocks to the Police Museum which proved to be another interesting stop.  The museum is housed in a historic building that once served as the coroner’s court, the city’s morgue and autopsy facilities, and the city crime laboratory.  The museum houses numerous artifacts, including Thompson sub-machine guns and other confiscated weapons as well as photos and documents of crime scenes. 

Morgue at the Police Museum

The room which served as the morgue is also open to the public.  A bullet hole can still be seen in the window of the morgue where a would-be assassin attempted to kill the pathologist who was getting ready to examine a body. 

A Murder Attempt

Someone was in the back alley waiting for the pathologist to wash his hands near the window and fire upon the one person who could find the secrets the body would divulge.  Fortunately the bullet missed its mark and the autopsy was completed.  A short walk southeast of Gastown lead us into Chinatown where we strolled through several markets displaying dried fish, shrimp, and other items that we couldn’t identify.  The area, obviously less fortunate, stands in stark contrast to cosmopolitan Vancouver; the boundary line is quite abrupt and is clearly obvious. 

Market in Chinatown

In the early years, social, economic, and political restrictions hindered the development of the Chinese community. 

Dried Mushrooms?

Today, wealthy Chinese, mostly from Hong Kong, live throughout the various districts in greater Vancouver, including the suburb of Richmond where fifty percent of the population is Chinese.  As a result, Chinatown has declined over the years.  Nevertheless, it’s an interesting area to visit and there have been recent efforts to revitalize historic Chinatown.  Our day out with the family was coming to an end but we reminded ourselves that quality is better than quantity.  We said our goodbyes and walked back to our marina while Duane and family departed southwest for Granville Island before heading home to Seattle.  We will miss their company and adventuresome spirit.

Vancouver Play Time

Lions Gate Bridge

Got d' Fever at Coal Harbour Marina

After a hardy breakfast, we departed Sucia Island on another nice day with clear skies and arrived at Coal Harbour Marina around 4pm after passing under the Lions Gate Bridge.  Duane and Gretchen arrived in Vancouver about an hour later, good timing for dinner out together at a local pub. 

The Family at Capilano Park

The following day was spent with the family visiting Capilano Park, of course we walked across the Capilano Suspension Bridge and also enjoyed the Treetops Adventure Walk, opened in 2004, as well as the Cliff Walk, opened in 2011. 

Treetops Adventure Walk

The boardwalks suspended high above in the tree canopy are quite impressive, engineered in such a way as to protect the bark of the old growth forest of Douglas Firs. 

Treetops Adventure Walk

The Cliff Walk is equally impressive, supported by cables and anchoring along a rock face with platforms extending out over the river valley below. 

The Cliff Walk

The Cliff Walk

The Capilano Suspension Bridge is now just one of several features and activities in the Park.  Still impressive, the Suspension Bridge is 460 feet long and 230 feet above the Capilano River. 

Capilano Suspension Bridge

The bridge was originally built by George Mackay in 1889 and was made of hemp ropes with a deck of cedar planks.  In 1956 the bridge was completely rebuilt with steel cables. 

Capilano Suspension Bridge

After a fun time at the Park, we drove into town for a late lunch at the Legendary Noodle café where noodles are homemade on site, served with an exotic Chamomile House Tea.