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Approaching Whale Passage |
July 7th was spent exploring the
rocky shoreline along Clarence Strait between Exchange Cove and Coffman Cove,
including the very narrow, rock strewn Whale Passage. The Passage circles around behind Thorne
Island leading into a large bay, ideal for sheltered anchorage but accessed via
a very treacherous north entrance or south entrance.
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Whale Passage |
The depths in Whale Passage vary considerably
from 20 feet down to 6 feet passing around flats and rocks both charted and
uncharted.
Although the channel is
indicated with red and green navigation markers, there are inaccuracies on the
electronic charts.
We discovered one
green marker anchored to a rock that didn’t show on the charts and two other
green markers were 200 feet from where they were depicted to be.
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Whale Passage |
Sport fishermen with smaller boats and local
knowledge zip in and out of the Passage but can also run into trouble.
This Passage with its many hazards must be
navigated with extreme caution.
We
entered the north passage way and reduced our speed to a slow crawl – low tide
had just ended and a flood had just begun which sent us slowly forward without
having to use too much throttle.
The
shallowest part, nick-named “the pinnacle,” briefly showed a depth of 3 feet
under our keel.
Leonard used the bow
thruster so as not to swing the stern - staying in mid-channel, we safely
passed over the “pinnacle” when we saw a sport fishing boat speeding through
from the opposite direction; he didn’t bother to slow down and the waves rocked
Got d’ Fever.
Fortunately we didn’t
hit bottom but I soon heard a thud; the sport fishing boat had apparently hit
bottom.
I looked back and saw that he
had stopped but couldn’t dwell on his predicament, I was on “bow watch” until
we were safely through the Passage.
The
water depth quickly increased and we soon entered the bay, the site of a
fishing lodge, boat ramp, and docks.
Ok,
we came, we saw, and now we had to get back out again.
We looked at the south entrance on the charts
which looked equally treacherous as the north entrance and plus some – there
are no channel navigation aids through the south entrance plus unmarked and
poorly charted rocks.
We decided to
leave the way we came, retracing over our previous track.
After a successful Whale Passage expedition,
we can now say “we’ve been there, done that.”
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Coffman Cove Sport Fishing Community |
We continued southeast along Clarence Strait and ducked between the rock
islets into the fishing village of Coffman Cove and tied-up at the marina; it
too was active with sport fishing boats bringing in their catch to be cleaned
and filleted.
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Sport Fishermen and Fisherwomen Cleaning their Catch |
The village has a general
store, pub, church, post office, and school.
Similar to Yakutat, there is no real town center but rather a collection
of homes and commercial buildings spread throughout the area connected by
narrow paved roads through the trees.
Not shown on the charts is a new ferry terminal that has been
constructed at Coffman Cove with stops scheduled to begin this summer.
Coffman Cove was originally founded as a base
for loggers and served that role until the closure of Ketchikan Pulp Co. in
1997.
The community’s focus is now
recreational fishing.
The first week in
July is the Silver Salmon Tournament, the 5
th annual this year, which
no doubt adds to the busy fishing scene at Coffman Cove.
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Sport Fishing Boats at Coffman Cove Marina |
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